Energy & cost
EV charging cost calculator
Taking a 75 kWh usable pack from 20% to 80% puts 45 kWh into the battery and pulls 50 off the meter: the 5 kWh in between is bought, metered, billed and never stored, and it is the whole reason a window sticker and a car's own consumption display disagree about the same vehicle. This page works the session from both sides — energy into the pack, energy off the meter — before any price is involved, then prices a mile at the home rate, at a public rate with its session fee, and against gasoline at whatever the pump is charging. The one control that matters most is the select saying which side of the charger your consumption figure was read on, because getting it wrong counts the losses twice or not at all.
- 100% free
- No signup
- Charging losses counted
- Four consumption units
- Home vs public vs gas
The car and the session
Usable capacity, not gross: manufacturers publish both, and the difference is the buffer the battery management system keeps to itself and never lets you spend.
All four are the same measurement written four ways, and the page converts between them.
The single control that decides whether the charging loss gets counted once or twice.
Default 90% — the difference between AC energy at the meter and DC energy into the battery on a 240 V Level 2 circuit, which is the reason an EPA window sticker's kWh/100 miles reads higher than the car's own consumption display — the label figure is measured from the wall under SAE J1634, the display figure from the pack. A 120 V Level 1 outlet is worse, because the charger's own fixed overhead is a larger share of a much smaller draw; below freezing it is worse again, since conditioning the pack is energy the meter counts and the battery never keeps. One session compared against a submeter settles it for your own car and circuit.
What the electricity costs, in both places
Nothing is prefilled here on purpose. A home rate is on your own bill and a public rate is on the network's app at the moment you plug in, and both move often enough that a figure supplied by this page would be wrong more often than it was right.
Yours, off the odometer — the round number here is a placeholder standing in for it.
Fill both and the third row of the table below fills in.
What the session moves and what it costs
INTO THE PACK
45 kWh
OFF THE METER
50 kWh
- Range this session adds
- 158 mi · 253 km
- Paid for but never stored
- 5 kWh
- At the pack
- 3.5 mi/kWh · 17.8 kWh/100 km
- At the meter
- 3.15 mi/kWh · 19.7 kWh/100 km
- This session at home
- —
- The same session in public
- —
- What a stored kilowatt-hour costs
- —
| Fueled this way | Per mile | Per 100 km | Per year |
|---|---|---|---|
| Charged at home | — | — | — |
| Charged in public | — | — | — |
| Burning gasoline | — | — | — |
Two shapes of public pricing this cannot take. A network that bills by the minute rather than by the kilowatt-hour is charging for the connector, not the energy, and what a minute buys collapses as the pack fills and the session tapers — the same minute is worth two or three times as much at 20% as at 80%. A subscription that lowers the per-kWh price for a monthly fee has to be amortized over the sessions you actually take before it can be compared with anything here.
What decides the circuit, not this page. How fast the car takes the energy is a wiring question rather than a cost one: the conductor, its length and the breaker at the panel set the current, and a charger is a continuous load, so the circuit is sized above what it draws rather than at it. That belongs to the electrical code your jurisdiction has adopted and to the electrician who signs the permit.
How to price a charge, a mile and a year of driving
Two of the three inputs are on your car's spec sheet. The third is the one that decides the answer.
Use usable capacity and the two states of charge
Manufacturers publish a gross pack size and a usable one, and the difference — often five to ten percent — is a buffer the battery management system reserves and never lets you spend. Enter the usable figure and the percentages either side of the session, because a charge from 20 to 80 moves 60% of the usable capacity and nothing at all of the buffer.
Say which side of the charger your consumption figure came from
A car's own display reports energy leaving the battery. An EPA window sticker reports energy leaving the wall, measured under the SAE J1634 test procedure, which is why its kWh per 100 miles always looks worse than the number on your dashboard for the same driving. Both are correct and they differ by the charging losses, so the page asks which one you are holding and applies the losses exactly once.
Enter both rates and read the annual gap, not the session
A single session at a public charger is a few dollars either way and nobody changes their life over it. The number worth looking at is the bottom right of the table: what a year of driving costs charged at home against a year of the same driving charged in public. That gap is usually larger than the installed cost of a home circuit, which is what turns this from an idle comparison into a decision.
Technical specifications
| Consumption units accepted | Four, converted between as one measurement: miles per kWh, kWh per 100 miles, watt-hours per mile and kWh per 100 km. 3.5 mi/kWh, 28.6 kWh/100 mi and 286 Wh/mi are the same car written three ways. |
|---|---|
| The pack-or-meter select | Decides whether the charging losses are applied to the range as well as to the energy. Read from the pack, 3.5 mi/kWh multiplies the 45 kWh that went into the battery; read from the meter, the same 3.5 multiplies the 50 kWh that came off it, and every cost per mile on the page moves by a tenth. Choosing wrongly is that whole tenth, in whichever direction you were not expecting. |
| Charging efficiency default | 90%, editable, and marked as a measurement rather than a specification. It falls on a 120 V Level 1 outlet, where the charger's fixed overhead is a larger share of a smaller draw, and falls again below freezing, when conditioning the pack consumes energy the meter counts and the battery never keeps. |
| Session energy | Usable capacity multiplied by the difference in state of charge, then divided by the charging efficiency to get what the meter registers. The page refuses a session that ends at or below where it started rather than returning a negative charge. |
| Public pricing supported | A price per kilowatt-hour plus a flat connection fee. Per-minute billing is deliberately not supported: what a minute buys collapses as the pack fills, so the same minute is worth two or three times as much at 20% as at 80% and no single figure represents it. |
| Distance handling | Annual distance in miles or kilometers, with cost reported per mile and per 100 km at once. The conversion is 1.609344 km to the mile exactly, by the international yard and pound agreement of 1959. |
| The gasoline row | Pump price divided by miles per gallon, and nothing else — a purely monetary comparison. No energy equivalence is assumed anywhere on this page, because comparing fuels by energy content answers a different question from comparing them by what they cost. |
| What none of this decides | The circuit. How fast the car takes the energy is set by the conductor, its length and the breaker, and a charger is a continuous load, which changes how that circuit is sized. |
Frequently asked questions
My car says 3.5 mi/kWh and the window sticker says 32 kWh per 100 miles. Which is right?
Both, and they differ by exactly the charging losses. The dashboard figure counts energy leaving the battery, so 3.5 miles per kilowatt-hour; the sticker counts energy leaving the wall, so at 90% charging efficiency the same car returns 3.15 miles per metered kilowatt-hour, which is 31.7 kWh per 100 miles and prints on a label that rounds to whole units as 32. The sticker figure is the one that matches your electricity bill, and the dashboard figure is the one that matches your range.
Do the same losses apply at a DC fast charger?
Not in the same place, but you still pay for them. DC fast charging bypasses the on-board charger entirely and feeds the pack directly, so the conversion loss moves to the station's own equipment — and the network meters at the dispenser, on the far side of that equipment, so the price you are quoted is for energy that has already been converted. What rises instead is thermal management: fast charging heats the pack, the cooling system runs hard throughout, and that energy is billed to you and stored nowhere.
Why does the last 20% of a charge take so long?
Because charging is constant-current only until the cells reach their voltage limit, after which the current has to taper to hold that voltage without damaging them. On a DC charger the practical effect is severe: the climb from 80 to 100 can take as long as the run from 20 to 80 did, which is why route planning stops at 80 and why per-minute billing punishes exactly the part of the session that delivers least. On a home circuit the taper is largely irrelevant, because the car was already limited by the on-board charger and the whole session happens overnight.
Should I compare electricity with gasoline by energy or by money?
By money, if the question is what driving costs, which it almost always is. The energy comparison exists — the EPA's window-sticker methodology treats 33.7 kWh as one gallon of gasoline, from a gallon's lower heating value of about 115,000 BTU — and it produces the MPGe figure on the label. But it compares the fuels, not the machines: an internal combustion engine discards most of that gallon as heat while a motor uses most of the kilowatt-hour, so the energy equivalence flatters gasoline enormously and answers a question nobody asked at a pump.
How much does cold weather change these figures?
It moves both of them, in the same direction, which is why winter surprises people twice. Consumption rises because cabin heat comes out of the same battery that moves the car and because cold air and cold tires both cost more to push through, and charging efficiency falls because the pack has to be warmed before it will accept current at any useful rate. The way to see it here is to run the page twice, once with a summer consumption figure and 90%, once with your winter figure and something lower, and take the difference as the seasonal spread rather than looking for one number that covers the year.
What is the difference between gross and usable battery capacity?
The buffer the manufacturer keeps back at the top and the bottom of the pack to protect its life, typically between five and ten percent of the total. It is real capacity that physically exists and that you can never charge into or draw out of, so entering the gross figure overstates every session by exactly that fraction and overstates the cost per mile by nothing at all — the miles rise with the energy, and the error hides. Use the usable figure, which is the one the range estimate was calculated from.
Does the charge point itself use anything when the car is not plugged in?
A few watts, continuously, and over a year that is not nothing: a unit idling at 3 W draws 26 kWh between one anniversary and the next, and a networked one with a permanent radio link draws more. It is far too small to affect any figure on this page, which prices sessions, but it is exactly the shape of load the electricity cost calculator exists to catch — a tiny draw multiplied by all 8,760 hours of the year.
About the gap between the meter and the battery
Every other calculation on this site multiplies energy by a price. This one has to do something first, because the energy a driver knows about and the energy a utility bills are not the same quantity. Alternating current arrives at the car and has to be rectified and controlled before it can be pushed into a battery, and the on-board charger doing that work dissipates part of it as heat, as does the cable, as does the thermal management keeping the cells in their window. Around a tenth of everything the meter registers therefore never reaches the pack. That is not a rounding error and it is not optional: it is why the EPA measures label consumption from the wall under SAE J1634 rather than from the battery, and why the resulting kWh per 100 miles reads worse than anything the car will ever show you.
The practical consequence is that a driver holds two efficiency figures which look like they disagree and do not, and a calculator that assumes one when it was given the other is wrong by that same tenth — small enough to look plausible, large enough to matter across a year. That is why the select naming which side of the charger the number came from sits in the middle of the form rather than in a footnote. It is the same class of error the rest of this cluster is built around: on the electricity cost calculator it is the appliance that draws almost nothing for almost all of the year, and on the energy usage calculator it is the load nobody listed because it never makes any noise. Small factor, enormous multiplier.
Once the energies are right, the money is straightforward and the interesting number is not the session but the year. The rate to bring here is the blended one from the kwh cost calculator, and it is worth noticing that adding a car frequently moves a household into a higher consumption block or onto a different schedule entirely — many utilities publish a separate tariff for vehicle charging precisely because they would rather the load ran overnight. The other half of the decision is not a cost calculation at all. A charge point is a continuous load and is sized accordingly, so the conductor comes off the wire size calculator, the raceway it runs in off the conduit fill calculator, and the breaker protecting it has to have an interrupting rating at least equal to the fault current available at that panel, which is what the short circuit current calculator establishes. None of those are questions this page can answer, and all of them are decided by the electrical code your jurisdiction has adopted and the electrician who signs the permit.
Where your charging figures stay
Every number on this page is worked out by JavaScript running in the tab you are reading it in. Nothing you type — loads, lengths, nameplate ratings, the rates your utility charges you — is uploaded, logged or kept, which is also why the calculators carry on working in a mechanical room with no signal.
Pack size, state of charge, the rates you pay and how far you drive are combined in this tab and go no further — no vehicle account is connected, nothing is matched against a charging network, and the page has no idea what car it is describing.